Site Visit: Utopia India and Buddhist Circuit

Site Visit: Utopia India and the Buddhist Circuit

Utopia: an imaginary island described in Sir Thomas More's Utopia (1516) as enjoying perfection.

Overview:

This was a two week trip that started in Nepal and finished in Nepal. India is a beautiful and enchanting place in the world. The cultural diversity and the wealth gap is not just apparent but tangible. The quality of commodities changes for example, in wealthy Delhi you get mostly GM food in contrast to Mathura where everything is from the back garden. Open defecation is welcomed and walking anywhere is just as acceptable. Corruption and begging is a stark contrast of how people are surviving in a nation where you are truly considered a minority unless you have the wealth or qualification.

The entry starts from Day 2 as the first day was a pleasant but long 34 hour bus from Syambhunath to New Delhi.

Tracked route:

India Entry #1

We arrived at this place (morning tea stop) around 7:30AM , no it’s 8:25AM. The situation here is really chilled out. The greatest satisfaction that morning was when there was a toilet stop. Everyone flocked out but I was the last one to exit the bus. The smell near the toilet was unbearable but understandable. This is the first toilet break since the border crossing (8 hours). It was the first time using IC (Indian currency) 200 Rs to pay the corrupt border guard because apparently camera’s aren’t allowed or as it put it “have to be declared”, sleep deprived I didn’t put up much of a fight as many of the other passengers were getting annoyed. Everyone is flocking back now: tea on their hands, fresh awoken smiles in contrast to what they looked like 20 minutes ago. With the rate we are going, we will reach Delhi by 4/5PM.

 

India Entry #2

It’s nearly 12:00PM and we have settled down to some food. They bring out automatic default order without ordering. I think it’s a pre order which you can just decline but because it was such a shock we accept blindly, these are information that trip advisor or virtual tourist do not tell you. My cousin had a bit of washing up scrubber on his food, we tried long and hard to think of alternatives to distract us from the truth. We also decided to try some dessert. I gave up after reading the menu, paradox of choice. We went towards the freezer or as the man put it “the ice cream show room”, after judging the ice cream by appearance and then packaging attire we opted for the safe option of Kulfi. We both felt satisfied after devouring the ice-cream on a hot sunny day heading towards New Delhi.

India Entry #3

We still haven’t reached our initial destination but being a casual observer from the bus (temporary home) there is lots of new cultural exposure. Fields are surrounded by trees as a natural defence, I don’t know why because New Delhi is polluted.  Houses are nicely painted. There are sign for development everywhere. I also had a thought of getting a shave while in India.

India entry #4

We got to my friend’s house around 6:30pm the delay was due to the congestion caused by the building of the new metro in Gurgaon. I have later been told by his father that's it’s been in development for over 4 years. 

I got a very warm welcome from my friend and his mother who were delighted to see us. After freshening up we had talks about food, family, life and interests. Somehow I managed to insert Proust philosophy and she slid in Buddhism. She seemed eager when I told her I was doing the Buddhist circuit. She felt at unease when I asked her questions, as she's a psychotherapist and was not always on the opposite end of answering questions. I enjoyed it and explained that I intentionally enjoy changing the body language so that she couldn’t “read” me. 

India fascinates me as I have this perception from films about how people act, live and decide. Yet it’s the total opposite. So rather than a culture shock I think it's been a culture acceptance. Maybe things will change when I get to Chandni Chowk. But for now we are on route to Jaipur also known as the Pink City. 

India Entry #5

It was the first visiting day and we went embarked on the short journey by train towards the pink city of Jaipur as part of the golden triangle.

Jaipur was interesting. On one hand there was history with impressive architecture and on the other open defecation and human population being free. I used the word free because people are just so comfortable with this chaos. People sleeping on the street. There is no sense of direction for the traffic on the nicely paved roads. I sometimes feel bad for my cousin who doesn’t really find these kinds of experiences fascinating even though we have just started out journey. I fear we won’t have a chance to visit every tourist attraction on my make do itinerary. As of this moment the Nepal’s Prime Minister KP Oli is visiting India’s Prime Minister Narendra Modi, when you are traveling you really do not care.

India Entry #6

 Phone Note: Form there bus to Agra. (From Ananbihar bus station). Bus ticket is around 200Rs. 

I have never seen someone so intent on caressing their baby. Initially it was soft gentle Stokes over the little kid’s lips. Followed by an intense constant zooming in and out with this head. Like the Pixar intro lamp. He did this for a good 5 minutes an abnormal amount of time. Then he proceed to cover his nose, innocent enough then his mouth but in a mild cupping fashion like he was holding a small bird. His wife saw this and with no verbal communication she put a shawl over the kid. Now the man is sleeping facing me. The metro is crowded and we have 59% confidence with our route. We also met a man from Channai named Stephen, great company.

My stomach pain must not be that bad if I can write this journal. Currently I am in a toilet near Red Fort. Clearly stating that I pay 10 rupees. These are the moments you realise that you need to really think what you are eating, this suggests yesterday food was not for me. Tasty but bad. I have taken a medicine. Two things are on my mind, Agra fort is really close and there is guy unlike me who is tone deaf can sing really well and his voice is keeping me company while in the toilet. 

Met this kid called "Salman". Enthusiastic kid who said he's brother is learning engineering in Japan and muttered “Konnichiwa” as a way of verifying this. 

• 1575 is how much they charge everyone at the hotel. 
• Beer is not allowed to be consumed in the streets. Also we cannot have them at the hotel.
• The place we are eating right now is called Aayat restaurant. Nice vibe. 

India entry #7

Information about Taj Mahal

1. A Tear drop in the cheek of time. 
2. The white describe the spirituality and forth faith of the person buried there. 
3. “Rivers of paradise” on the Quran. 
4. It took 20 years to construct. 
5. “Their happiness was mortal their love was for eternity” 

While on the auto towards ISBT we bought bidi which is local tobacco. Which is what the poor man can afford so it was a surprise when we bought it from the locals. Surprise from them because they saw us buying it and surprise from us because we saw their reaction. I’m really enjoying my experience here and I don't know if we're over spending financially. 

 The rural place of India is plastered with Vodafone 3G while the capital or economic hub is with Vodafone 4G.

India entry #8

This entry is at the toilet bus stop. From the bus window, saw a beautiful bride groom dressed in all orange. To recollect what I saw would be incorrect but I will try my best to describe her. She has a very mischievous but eager eyes that only looked down and held the end of her shawl as a defence from the rest of the society. Yet she peeked through the defence like a mischievous kid who has been sent to his room.

Her orange dress were probably made out of bamboo like the one we saw today at Agra (as it was an expensive looking dress that would be worn occasionally). It was orange in colour which complimented her red lipstick and her black eyes. The crowd here seem to be oblivious of this beauty but it really made me appreciative. As I write this a third gender Hijra has taken over the appreciation and turned into frustration. It's because I don't understand going on and why they are demanding me money by physically touching me when that is not the way to do it. And I don't appreciate them blessing me and taking it away when I choose not to acknowledge them, it's not like I wanted this to happen. Yet this Hijra has put little effort in her outfit but claps 'her" hands enthusiastically. 

If I had summarise this experience it would have to be beauty turned into confusion that I could not understand. Sun is setting now and we are not even halfway to Lucknow. Today is also full moon and maybe due to some geographical reasons it's a lot lower. It feels like a setting sun and looks majestic. When gazing at the moon one can feel peace at the woman praying at the Mandir (temple) alone. Until a vehicle horn makes an interrupted appearance. 

It's currently 19:21pm and the bus is packed. I'm listening to podcasts to pass time. 

21:03: When asking the conductor “how much time till destination” He replies "I don't know the time so how can I tell you". An answer than will keep the one who asked it to be silent and amused. 

India Entry #9

We have arrived at Charbagh Bus Station at 3:00 am in the morning. The location will be the same until sunrise and I feel comfortable knowing that people are also taking a refugee here for their next bus. I am also comfortable knowing we have shortened the sightseeing to only 3/4 places. 

Disregarding the REM cycle I can successful say I will be very tired in couple of hours but for now the tea at Charbagh is keeping both of us alive and fresh. We are blessed with the comfort talk from our Hindustani friend, not to get confused with my cousin. He speaks little. English but describes his hardship and struggle of being in this place while also migrating for work. In a population where you are treated just like a labour product there is no need for external motivation, just a will to survive. 

“With a finger you cannot do much but with a fist you can accomplish a lot more”. - Cousin while walking around Lucknow. 

India Entry #10

It's 12:26 PM and we are heading towards the holy city of Varanasi. Facts aside we are passing through the one of the poorest regions I feel visually in India - Jagdispur. The stark contrast in poverty is apparent and actually it's really interesting to see them be very frugal. Every piece of land is populated just by the road for convenience while the "Back Garden" is set side and used effectively for agriculture. Every sector in India means business and very successful one too. 

At Lucknow we happened to get inside a beautiful mosque and walk around for free for a morning walk. A well-deserved treat from the sleep deprivation of yesterday. On the other note we got scammed in a different mosque. (-50 rupees). The only thing that I've lost is the much needed replacing camera cover, no problem. As we head towards Varanasi or as the local call it Varana I cannot wait to see where the next part of the journey will be. 

India entry #11

First night in Varanasi, busy crowded and unpredictable. I feel like I should not talk to anyone back home except be in the present, the now. We reached the Aarati (prayers) where a smiling person approached us without talking. He signalled where to go for the best picture I thought that was nice of him. But it was not the truth and he asked for money later for his services. I paid him 10 rupees and refused his initial request of 100. The explanation of "I'm a student” has worked twice in this trip so far. 

 

We then had an amazing new experience because it the chain of events were unpredictable.

1. We met a baba and we sat down with him and his friends. 
2. Introduced ourselves and found that one of the highlighted people was actually Nepali; named Himalayan (of course). 
3. We left listing to some Japanese people playing some instruments with baba. He also danced with us. 
4. We also had good food after a long while and the food was rice and dal! Mmm…

I distinctively remember the baba saying “Marijuana is a Parsad (gracious gift form the gods) and you cannot refuse Parsad. 

Phone Notes:

Journey predictions:

• From here to Saranath. Then from hotel to Varanasi station: 3km
• Then Varanasi station to Gaya. 5 hours journey.
• Then Gaya to Bodhgaya. 8km. Arrive at Bodhgaya.
• The train runs all the time and you can pay at the station.

Plan:

• Leave Varanasi at 1130 (there is a bus at this time).
• Journey to Bodhgaya is 6/7 hours.
• Reach Bodhgaya and sleep on the bus in the morning.

We have arrived at Saranath and it’s beautiful. We are currently stopping at a restaurant called Green Hut Restaurant. Next to me are some tourists and religious pilgrimagist from China. We are really hungry because we have been exposed to many experience this morning.

The morning at Varanasi. I feel I have seen the different side of India. The rawness and the sadness. I saw a baba who was meditating peacefully at the morning sun while taking deep mindful breathes, I felt at ease seeing such an intense view. We also had the joy of reaching the Assi Ghat all way from Pashupathinath Ghat (it's also where they burn all the poor population intensely). Yet we did not see any bodies being burnt we did feel the busy life and the intensity of dogs barking. We also saw the kids playing the national game of Nepal- Dandi Biyo.

Furthermore we also got a chance to walk through the streets around Varanasi, cousin described this as walking through Bhaktapur. We finally gave up the unsaid challenge and got a rickshaw back to the hotel. Thank God for Maps. Me. 

The monkey stole our Nimki while we were in the hotel we know this as the next rooftop had residue of Nimki. That's the only thing that we saw missing back at the hotel.

 

Things I learnt from Saranath:

The concept of hinayana, by struggling yourself to Nirvana you can effectively bring happiness in other people's life. 

The process of Nirvana (core):

• What is suffering
• Suffering can be supressed
• Causes of suffering 
• Dealing with suffering (helping others)

Cousin described it as: “simple living high thinking”

1030pm: We are currently on a local train heading towards Bodhgaya, we will get off at Gaya. It is one of the most important place for Buddhism, where Buddha was enlightened. I’m very excited to see and embark on this opportunity. If I had to describe the situation right now it would be tired, happy and legs stretched on the top bunker of the train.

Also met a traveller who’s Chinese (浮生一日) and initiated a conversation because he has no shoes. He tells me that he has initially lost his shoes but in fact he's just broken them. Now he's walking around Varanasi barefoot. 

 

India entry #12

01:14AM- We have settled down on our hotel rooms. The vibe of this place is very positive, although sleep deprived. I have also found a charger that works just as a precaution. 

Thankfully cousin asked the passenger in the train exactly the right of when to get off to reach Gaya. I was actually preparing myself for another comfortable sleeping position. Once we reached Gaya the negotiation started. Our tactics of using local price via the local people as a means of getting a minimal price proved a success and yielded a positive result. We got a price of 150 from 250 which in my eyes seems like a good price even though the local only pay 20 rupees. It's midnight and we are tired let's not hassle too, much and also the driver will show us the hotel. There were some funny bits while negotiating. 

• When approached by many people for a deal on the auto all I heard was" see sau, 200-" it was all a haze and confusion. So I replied with" hebbudsuusu" this seemed effective as it: 1) surprised and confused the locals 2) made then laugh enough for the driver's to think I am serious about the price. 

We need to wake up early tomorrow as we are in the land Buddha was enlightened. 

 

 18:09PM -We have arrived in Mugalshraha (a name that I will not remember after writing). I still find then negotiation process confusing. So we are told by locals that the maximum price is 250 rupees and the local pays 30 rupees via a sharing system. So we are paying 170 after what felt like a successful negotiation but doubtful as they accepted so easily. We never known how low they are willing to go. This is my entry coming straight out of sleep, India is confusing after waking up. Sometimes we are paying a higher price because we don't know where we are going. 

Note from Phone: 67.87 per litre for gas in India, no wonder the auto charge so cheap. 

There is so much sadness in India. The rural part of India is filled with such experiences. Where you matter so little it's hard to stand out and to progress, so your life resorts to begging politely. It’s saddening for me to see such an experience but the smiles and conversation you get out from them is truly a blessing in disguise. A disguise to cover up pain. We are currently heading towards Gorakhpur to go to Khusinagar. 

20:32PM: On a lighter note we saw a street party followed by an elephant leading the parade. In my experience, only in India. 

Also I don't think I've shared this but the ticketing system in Indian buses are fair. It's fair because it's all electronic and unless you have the exact change then you are in trouble. In the case you don't have the exact change the conductor will write the remaining change he owes to you on the back and circles it. Unless you do your maths you will be charged more. In the case of today, he owed us 124 rupees but wrote only 24 rupees on the back. We aren't mathematically inclined so we were still calculating and found the flaw. We were proud to spot this scam. 

There was a film about a guy who stole archaeological treasures after a long scam, and he got away with it. India reminds me a little of that.

 

21:27 PM - Just encountered another wedding happening in rural India. I caught a glimpse of the bride who was dressed in a majestic white dress with golden trim as a compliment. He seemed cool and calm and wore those traditional turban around his head which was pink in colour. However the main highlight was the people dancing on a makeshift rows of imaginary dance hall. Everyone seemed to just let themselves loose to traditional unheard music with heavy bass. Oh and there was also a horse present to carry the bride. India.

India entry #13

After getting to Ghorakpur at 0300AM in the morning we settled down into a hotel that had limited water and no Wi-Fi the best was sufficient enough to pay 450 rupees. When walking through Ghorakpur you have be aware as many people know how to speak Nepalese here. This is the last point for trains before heading to Nepal via bus through Sunauli. It's seems like such a transition coming here, the roads are in need of fixing the shops are disorientated. However they have cycle paths and this is for references, there needs to be a ticketing system in Nepal for all buses and micro. We are currently heading to the resting place of Gautam Buddha. 

1344 PM: We have arrived at Khusinagar. And my realization is all this materialistic bullshit. People dresses themselves in a conformist way and the religious logic is to be free. Yet people feel as if they join the cult they would achieve the same result. They are going about it from a wrong way or maybe I'm wrong. People are praying to human beings, people should appreciate then not give up all anatomy to them. Currently my view is a bunch of tourist group who have this special mat they are circling the Nirvana temple. Such idiosyncrasies everywhere.

14:22 PM - Begging by children is wrong. But there is a reason for it. Positive reinforcement, they beg they get. So it must be the right thing to do. Furthermore they get positive reinforcement from their parents but it's one that promotes bad habits. You will not tell your kids to smoke or ask them buy drugs. Kids are begging since birth and the critical development of the brain extends to the age of 12. But this again comes back to the equality gap. I’m saddened but it's good to see the smile when I offer nuts to eat rather than cash.

• Chinese whispers of lies throughout history is how I interpret Buddha’s reaching.

15:18 PM- We are at Ramabhara Stupa and in all honesty it's entertaining. There are Buddhist monks who are chanting their own mantra while on looking curious Indians are taking pictures of this remarkable scenes. The contrast and practices really intrigues them. I have my shoes off and watching this spectacle unfold. Just as they are about to finish off with “Om Mani Padme Ho" there is a loud speaker present from other pilgrimage group. I guess it's not about your beliefs but rather your choice in microphone to amplify your beliefs. 

16:12 PM – On a bus I just had this great idea for a photo. In a polluted place or city you have a new born and you put a little mask for the baby.  "There is nothing new except what has been forgotten". Might be true. 

Also I can define the Indian population as "sperm competition”, but everyone is born and the richest are the ones that will survive. 

17:41 PM: Back at Gorakhpur. Stopped by the police camp to see them do their afternoon stretching and yoga. However we got stopped by an angry man on a scooter who insisted that we should not be here. We then decided to head back and when we did a new police recruit stopped us with curiosity than authority, “Bhai” was the word he used. He asked about visiting Pashupathinath and sights near Nepal. He seemed really interested, his moustache twitching with every word spoken. He asked how I have so much free time and it got me thinking “I have never thought about it”. I guess I'm just more privileged knowing I have a safety net and my responsibility is not that high, at this point in time it's all me. But I could not express this in my broken Hindi so I just replied, I like travelling. He didn't seem content with the answer. He asked for my phone number to which I complied. Just as this was happening groups of his friends came over and overwhelmingly he got shy. 

Do you speak English?

Yes.

Full English?

..

Amusing conversation.

18:32 PM- Heading towards Sunauli, Nepal. 

Nepal Entry #1

08:14 AM- At the morning in fresh Nepal we stopped for tea. Turned the GPS on and before heading off had some really interesting morning experience and conversation. Couple of people (elders) talked about their understanding of the current situation in Nepal. The repeated concept that it's the people that needs a change before a change is visible in the country and on development. This as right but then he started to continually talk out of his ass like he knew everything using examples of North Korea and Singapore. Heading to Lumbini now. 

08:54 AM- The conversation started with me explaining to my cousin that you should question everything and me showing an example by shouting" what is this. ". An eager ecommerce student said “This is bus". He had mistaken me for a foreigner. But after our laughter I noticed that many signs in Nepal said “Buddha was born in Nepal “it’s like we are insecure about the facts. We focus too much on little details that's one of the reason we fail in the concept of development, we are so far from advancing as a nation.

Nepal entry #2

The trip began with enthusiasm and then turned into frustration. People are again singing and chanting inside the Maya Devi Temple. But I should be conditioned to this by now with this happening all over the Buddhist circuit. 

 

To something that really intrigued me:  The Panditarama Lumbini International Vipassana Mediation Center. I remembered once signing up and getting rejected to this experience and on the long term I am glad. I am glad because I got to see and get a teaser of what the experience could be. I entered the center knowing full well I was not allowed inside therefore I was trespassing, politely. A Yogi whispered that I could come inside to which I accepted with a nod. She opened the gate with delicate care making sure not a sound could be made or heard. Upon entering inside I was exposed to a man who seemed like a guard meditating now it occurs to me that he might have been sleeping. 

I have also been introduced to walking mediation, I’m sure it has its benefits but to me it just looked so conformingly awkward. People (especially old people) (who I fear are here because they are closer to death) walking really slowly like they are stuck on quick sand. Then there was a gate on the right side of the center where I swear I saw someone doing the walking meditation whom I recognise or it was someone I known who do participate in such thing. 

At lunch around 11AM we met this Vietnamese couple who talked about their current extended travel experiences. They had planned for a round trip for around three months and things have been going great for them. I saw happiness and eagerness to meet new people in their eyes their conversation was engaging and not forceful. I felt at ease talking to them. I gave them advice about their travel to India, places we have just came out from. They presented us with gifts from Tibet and we returned the gesture with a gift from India. They we said out goodbyes only to be reacquainted with them at the Peace Pagoda Temple. We laughed and said out final goodbyes. 

Nepal entry #3

Then morning started at the family sister’s house. I had the privilege to meet the grandfather of the family. He talked enthusiastically about his experience when he was in the India army and I seem to be asking him the right questions. I like his vibe he has a nice moustache and ears that flap in motion with every head movement. His most memorable talk was about how India and Nepal trade of butter in exchange for salt. Things he explained, were so simple back then. Upon asking him about what the youths of today are underappreciating he went to talk about the hierarchical system and how people at the top are under qualified. He expressed personally that he did not have as much qualification but he sure did have experience.

"People who have good qualification will always be behind the desk and people like me will always be answering to the desk, that is fair enough but our country leader do not even deserve to get behind the desk, they are under qualified". He stopped talking looked down at the ground to think and there were hints of sadness. He smiled and I reciprocated to show mutual understanding of the situation. 

• Jiulal Kunwar
• He is 82 years old. Born 1982.
• Served in the India army when he was 19.
• Based in Gorakhpur (the army camp)
• Export and imports in India and Nepal was very competitive and friendly.
• Transportation systems back then. 

He said that a politician’s promise is one of the worst thing that could come out of someone's mouth. 

When arriving at the Ujjal Shisu School I was lost when the principle and her wife suggested that I should give a speech. It occurred to me that it has been a while since I had done so. Taking the classroom I realized that they will also be as eager but scared of me. I had to create a vibe that showed respect and understanding. Comedy with hint of seriousness will be my preferred choice. The class listened to me enthusiastically as I had a realistic speech about how the youths can better empower themselves to seek employment and development opportunities in their own country rather than migrate to countries provides them opportunity but sadness. They understood, engaged and answered questions I felt they could understand and relate to. There was happiness and genuine curious smiles about the future. I wished them a good luck on their SLC (GCSE) and said my goodbye. 

Till next time.

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